TIFFANY'S JEWELED BOUQUET

In 1885, at the tender age of 26, G. Paulding Farnham  (1859-1927) joined Tiffany’s design department. Studying under Edward Moore, Farnham quickly distinguished himself as a skillful and innovative artist. Paulding. arguably was Tiffany and Company's most eminent nineteenth-century jewelry designer. He was given the responsibility, with Moore, of designing the jewelry for Paris’s international "world's fair" exposition in 1889 and was “universally recognized as the genius” behind Tiffany's success. According to The Paris Herald, noted Farnham," whose fertility of imagination and power of invention may be best judged by the fact that there are no two similar objects in the exhibit", the orchids were acclaimed as the most original and finest of jewels of the exhibition there-by winning the grand prize gold medal for jewellery. (Orchid Photo Left. Christies's Auction: Sold $40,723 Yr: 2010)

Farnham's fabulous collection of twenty-four realistically rendered enamelled orchid hair ornaments and corsage jewels enamelled and bejeweled florals were unsurpassed in beauty and detail. The New York Sun reported on March 17, 1889, that the jewels attracted more attention "than any flower show, display of orchids, or any other of nature's beauty ever brought together in this city."
(Photo) Iris Brooch  This flower pin with a textured gold stem and diamond-set leaves is enhanced by a single diamond dewdrop set amid the realistically rendered purple enamel petals. The gentle arc of its stem and the naturalistic blossom reflect the Art Nouveau style, which inspired jewelers toward the end of the century. The enameled orchids is part of G. Paulding Farnham Collection.

G. PAULDING FARNHAM success was ascribed to the synergistic relationship he shared with his gemologist George Frederick Kunz, who provided him with a fantastic array of colored stones including conch pearls, pink topaz, demantoid garnet, Mexican fire opals, Montana sapphires, and Arizona turquoise.

Orchids were a symbol of wealth and status during the last quarter of the nineteenth century, and orchid fever was at its height when Tiffany and Co. displayed its examples at the Paris Exposition. Consequently, collectors of real orchids, such as the financier Jay Gould who purchased most of the collection, began to collect Farnham’s jeweled ones for personal enjoyment.  By 1900 Tiffany had expanded its stock to include 15 more varieties. (See Photo right)

The Iris Brooch (Above) purchased at the 1900 Paris Exposition by railroad magnate Henry Walters. It is another important example of American Victorian naturalism. This large piece possesses dramatically curved petals mounted with Montana sapphires, flashing blue to deep lavender, accented by yellow sapphires and diamond veining as a creative interpretation. The equally detailed stem exhibits a life-like texture and delicate joints sprouting green garnet leaves.  

(photo left: Enamel and pearl flower brooch by Tiffany and Co.)

Despite Farnham’s star-studded success, he was dethroned as design director at Tiffany two years later in 1902 by Louis Comfort Tiffany when he assumed the leadership role when his father died. In 1908, Farnham resigned from Tiffany and Company due to creative disputes with Louis Tiffany.

Farnham finshed his career as sculptor and painter after leaving his position at Tiffany's and moved his family West settling in Mill Valley, California.  Today, Paulding Farnham jewels can only found in private collections and museums or purchased through priviate auctions.


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